Forks in the Road: Impressions of Magical Venice

By Katy Budge

Venice is a magical city … in more ways than one. Designated a UNESCO heritage site, its very existence defies logic and logistics.

The population of Venice began to amass in the 5th century largely because some people were fleeing invasions, and found refuge on some easy-to-defend islands in a lagoon. A rather inauspicious start to one of the world’s great cities.

Venice would eventually find itself situated at the crossroads of global trade, and built itself into a formidable industrial center. All this with no “roads” — just waterways and a byzantine tangle of city “streets”.

As such, to this day, the only wheeled devices allowed in Venice are pushcarts. Indeed, they’re the only contraptions that can make it through the narrow alleys, over the bridges, and through the gawking crowds. As our guide explained, yes you can order a bed from Ikea, but it’ll cost you ten times the price to get it to your doorstep. She then pointed to a rather small window on the second floor of an apartment, and said, “It doesn’t matter what size flat screen TV you want, it has to fit in that window.”

Arguably, it wasn’t the ideal place to establish a city, and the fact that Venice still exists is amazing. Yes, it is sinking. It’s built on islands after all. The city regularly floods several times a year, and locals consider knee-high rain boots an essential part of their wardrobe. (The causes of that flooding are ample and rich fodder for another time.)

Still, it is a magical city. And I count myself very lucky to have been there amid the off-season, and during a time when floating cities of cruise ships are still not allowed to disgorge their teeming masses.

I got to experience this Venice …

Our first night in Venice was New Year’s Eve, and we had just enough of a view from our room to see the fireworks at Piazza San Marco (St. Marks’ Square).

Our first meal in Venice. The pizza was more than large enough to share, but the server looked deeply offended when that’s all we ordered!
Public bathrooms are scarce in Venice, so the custom is to go into a café and have a coffee. I’m convinced it’s a pyramid scheme, because what’s usually one of the next things you need to do after having coffee?!

We visited in January, so not much was in season except artichokes (above), and a particular kind of radicchio called treviso (below). I was just trying to just get a shot of the treviso, but the amiable vendor included his smile for me too.
I could get used to having one of these quaint neighborhood markets within walking distance.
One of many images of the expansive fish market.
Persimmons drying in the open air.
This corkscrew meant business. It might seem normal-sized, but it was perched atop a very large format cork!
The Jewish ghetto in Venice was one of a couple we visited on the trip. The sobering history of this one was sweetened a bit when our delightful tour leader brought us all some of these tasty pastries (a bit akin to a biscotti) which are specific to Venice.
We didn’t eat at this restaurant in the ghetto, but I had to admire their sense of humor!
Our last meal in Venice — cicchetti, or small snacks. They’re served at a number of casual restaurants throughout the city, and are perfect little noshes to have with a spritz.

Ciao Venice! Hope to see you again soon, and I hope you can keep your magic.

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