A Sonoran hot dog – aka Sonora dog – wasn’t on my culinary radar until I started researching a trip to Tucson, a UNESCO City of Gastronomy. It didn’t take long to realize, “Who am I to argue with the James Beard Foundation and an award-winning food writer?”
Certainly I’d have to try a Sonoran hot dog, but I’ll admit to being less than thrilled about it. Though I’m a fan of wursts and sausages in general, a hot dog isn’t a must have except maybe on Fourth of July. That said, the typical American dog – mustard, relish, onions — is to the Sonoran version as a lullaby is to a mariachi band.
Obviously, the key to a Sonoran hot dog is the bacon-wrapped hot dog. Specifically “… bacon wrapped around a frank like the stripes on a barber pole, pork grilled on pork until the bacon binds itself to the casing, becomes inextricable without a committed chomp,” as it’s described by Gustavo Arelleno (the aforementioned writer) in his engaging book Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America.
From there, building a Sonoran hot dog starts with a canoe-shaped bolillo – a pillowy, yet slightly crusty bun that’s hollowed out instead of sliced so it can take what’s coming its way. First is a slather of beans, then the bacon-wrapped dog, then spoonfuls of diced red tomatoes and green salsa, squirts of yellow mustard, and zigzags of mayonnaise.
The specific origins of Sonoran hot dogs are as murky as most iconic dishes that waft to-and-fro between national borders. Sonoran cuisine obviously has its roots in that region of Mexico, the state that borders Arizona. But Sonoran dishes and traditions are now firmly rooted and celebrated in the Southwestern United States, especially Tucson.
Hotdogueros sell their Sonoran dogs throughout Tucson in various levels of formality — from ice chests to food trucks to sit-down restaurants. To narrow down my search for the quintessential example, I turned to Arellano’s Taco USA book and the online Tucson Foodie. (The latter is a great resource for city visitors, by-the-way.)
The hot dog quest came down to two clear leaders of the pack: El Güero Canelo and BK Tacos. Depending on whom you ask, the entwined history of these establishments is a bit fuzzy as to who started what and who exactly reigns supreme, but they seem to have a friendly rivalry.
Since it was closest to where I was staying, first up was the second location of BK Tacos in North Tucson. In addition to a wide-ranging menu of other Mexican dishes, this cheery spot also had a friendly hostess who made a couple of neophyte Sonoran hot dog gringas feel right at home.
Did I say I didn’t think I’d like Sonoran hot dogs? How very wrong I was! What I thought would be a messy kitchen sink mashup was a surprising delight. Not only did the bolillo hold up as expected, its shape assured you got a little bit of everything in every bite. And isn’t that the true test of an awesome sandwich? Add to all that: margaritas in a zesty chile-rimmed glass, and a salsa bar that included not only jalapeños but also whole grilled green onions. I was a happy girl!
The second Sonoran hot dog destination was the original location of El Güero Canelo, located in South Tucson. It was in a little grittier part of town, but since Arellano had named this as #4 of his “Five Greatest Mexican Meals in the United States,” off we went.
From first looks, you wouldn’t have guessed this little hole-in-the-wall was THE spot named as an America’s Classics Winner by the James Beard Foundation in 2018. Not sure that we used the correct front door, and the decidedly no-frills interior was cobbled together from a few additions, and the seating was a haphazard assemblage of benches and booths. Oh well.
We placed our hot dog order and were given one of those remote pagers that buzz very loudly and wildly twirl red flashing lights when your meal is ready. In the meantime, we got some grilled jalapeños and onions from the salsa bar, and settled in to observe a myriad of clientele wandering in – from construction workers, to families, to obvious out-of-towners like us.
After being jolted out of our people-watching reverie by the buzzing and flashing of the pager, I sprung up to fetch our dog from the front counter. To be honest, I couldn’t discern much difference between El Güero Canelo’s Sonoran hot dog and the one from BK Tacos, which was just fine with me. Both were the cat’s meow, and I’d happily go back to either restaurant.
Muchas gracias, Tucson!
Other tasty stops in Tucson …
Drinks at the bar at the historic Arizona Inn
Tamales from St. Mary’s Mexican Food and the venerable El Charro
And … it’s not edible, but a trip to the sprawling outdoor Desert Museum (more of a zoo and botanical garden) is a must!