Forks in the Road: “395 and Coasting”

Last fall, the 2017 Pod Squad (two two-leggeds, two four-leggeds, and one sweet little R-Pod trailer) set out for an adventure dubbed “395 and Coasting.”

As always, the route took us to a lot of tasty spots that included breweries, bakeries, and burgers. Farmers markets are a regular favorite too – not only for fresh seasonal produce, but also for local delights such as Oregon blackberry jam from a local farm and scones from a guy in Spokane calling himself … wait for it … The Scone Ranger! (There’s a recap of culinary highlights below.)

The travel strategy was to follow US-395 all the way to Spokane to see family, then down to the Columbia Gorge, and on to the Oregon and California coasts. As a result, the underlying theme became “Bodies of Water” because for all 26 nights we managed to camp alongside water — a lake, a river, or the Pacific Ocean. Not a bad postscript!

We did make one variation to the 395 plan — a kick out to Joseph, Oregon, which turned out to be one of the best parts of the trip. We’re talking EASTERN Oregon here, barely 20 miles from the Idaho border. Called the “Alps of the Northwest,” Joseph isn’t on the way to much of anything, but it’s worth going out of your way to see.

Two of the Pod Squad members enjoying the view of the Columbia River at Memaloose State Park

A plan to stay near Portland got tanked because a particular campground was closed due to the Eagle Creek Fire in the Columbia River Gorge, but serendipity led us to a gem of a spot — Memaloose State Park Campground just east of Hood River, Oregon. Sometimes when things don’t work the way you planned, they work out better than expected!

Fire factored in again at the end of the trip as we neared home, heading down CA Highway 1. We started seeing the smoke drifting north from the tragic Santa Rosa/Napa area fires. As we got closer to our Bodega Bay destination and started checking out campgrounds, we saw vehicle after vehicle covered in ashes, many of them belonging to people who didn’t even know if they had lodging to return to. People for whom “camping” was home for now. It was a sobering end to the trip, but a reminder of how very lucky we were to be able to be camping by choice.

— By Katy Budge

 

Here’s the roundup of the trip’s culinary highlights. I’ve also noted the bodies of water and locations, so if there’s a particular town or topic you’re interested in, you can scroll through or do a search – just click on the little magnifying glass just below the page banner and type in your query. Enjoy!

Day 1: Lake Isabella, Kernville, CA

The first sips of the trip – IPAs at Kern River Brewing Company.

Day 2: June Lake, CA

Yes, we braved this place the next day and ended up with some pretty good jerky … and dried cantaloupe, which was also surprisingly good for dried fruit. Those of you with dehydrators might give it a try.

However, the best bites of the day came from Great Basin Bakery in Bishop – sourdough bread and molasses cookies!

Day 3: Washoe Lake, Carson City, NV

Landed at Washoe Lake campground outside Carson City, and went back into town for some IPAs at Shoe Tree Brewing and a yummy pulled pork sandwich with habanero slaw with Yucatan potato salad from Sassafras next door.

Day 4: Goose Lake, OR

Camping dinner – yes, it happens sometimes! – of roasted peppers, chicken/ginger/scallion sausages, and noodles.

Day 5-6: John Day River, John Day, OR

Even though 1188 Brewing in John Day only had a White IPA (not my fav), they did have really good salmon chowdah and wings.

Since it was Saturday, went with the “bird-in-the-hand” strategy and stayed in Clyde Holliday State Park another night. That also kept us in town for the farmers market. Bought tomatoes, potatoes, blackberry jam, and grass-fed beef, plus a couple (small) bags of delicious homemade cookies to support the local Genealogy Society!

A vista of the John Day Fossil Beds near John Day, OR

Also gave us time to visit John Day Fossil Beds – stunning! The Thomas Condon Paleontology Center has some great exhibits, including one containing tiny, tiny fossilized mouse teeth! Clearly one needs great patience to be a paleontologist.

Day 7: Grande Ronde River, La Grande, OR

Drove through beautiful forest to La Grande, or – as it turned out – La Burger. Checked into Side A Brewing for IPAish beers, “dirty” fries (topped with fresh herbs, cherry peppers, Parmesan, and smoked aioli), a righteous black and bleu and bacon burger with a salad tossed with apple cider vinaigrette, house pickles, microgreens.

A visit to Bella, the local wine shop, sent us home with some delightful Columbia River Valley Riesling from Trust Cellars. Don’t pass up the knowledge available in these local shops; give them a price point that you’re comfortable with, and see what they suggest.

Day 8-10: Wallowa Lake, Joseph, OR

Before leaving La Burger, hit up Nell’s ‘N’ Out, which is supposed to have the best drive-in burger in the state. Who am I to argue!

Embers Brewhouse — Joseph, OR

After settling into the gorgeous Wallowa State Park in Joseph, headed into town to Ember’s Brewhouse, where a slew of IPAs awaited!

A righteous omelet at Old Town Cafe in Joseph.
Decadent breakfast at the Red Rooster Cafe — Johnny Cake with bacon and cheese.
The tap lineup at Terminal Gravity Brewing in Enterprise, OR

During our stay in this gorgeous spot, we enjoyed fabulous breakfasts at Old Town Café in Joseph and the farm-to-table Red Rooster Café in Enterprise (always look at those local travel guides, people!), IPAs at Terminal Gravity Brewing (which has been brewing in Enterprise since 1997), more IPAs at Embers, campsite fajitas with the aforementioned grass-fed beef from the farmers markets, AND we got to see the Kokanee salmon run up the Wallowa River. They’re too small for good eating, but it was an amazing sight to see so many fish making such an epic struggle.

Kokanee salmon spawning

Day 11: Snake River, Clarkston, WA

Day 12-13: Spokane River, Spokane, WA

Visiting cousins in Spokane! Went to No-Li Brewing for dinner the first night, and THEN the next night got treated to Cousin Wendy’s fabulous home-cooked “Taste of Washington” of baked salmon with Salish smoked salt, wild rice, creamed cucumbers (stole that recipe!), and baked caramel apples – yes, apples baked with caramels! Cousin Bill was tasked with pouring Washington IPAs and wine, and performed his duties quite admirably.

Also checked out the Spokane farmers market — scored some righteous dahlias as a hostess gift, some peppers and onions, and some scones from The Scone Ranger (how could we not?). And, enjoyed some delightful wood-fired pizza at The Flying Goat. The cousins also took us to Alder Crest Winery – stunning old mansion overlooking the river valley!

Day 14: Columbia Rover, Wenatchnee, WA

Nope — not Seattle! Pybus Public Market in Wenatchee, WA.

Fun little town! Wish we’d stayed here another night instead of pushing on to Yakima, which was sorta meh. And yes, their Pybus Public Market sign looks a lot like Pike Place in Seattle. Inside were several specialty food shops, restaurants, and Wenatchee Brewing Company.

Day 15: Yakima River, Yakima, WA

Stopping at roadside spots like this can uncover hidden gems!

Stopped on the way to Yakima at Hilltop Harvest Barn farm stand and discovered Honeycrisp apples! Evidently, I am late to the party on these, but they’re my new favorite apple – flavor lives up to the name. Oh, and the farmstand had ice cream … Winegar’s Homemade Ice Cream.

Found a truly old school spot for beers and a nosh in downtown Yakima – the Sports Center Restaurant. And that hunter on the sign rotates continuously!

Day 16-17: Columbia River, just east of Hood River, OR

A flight of tasters at Full Sail Brewing in Hood River, OR (Photo by J. Kiichli)

After a brekkie of French toast topped with some of the jam from the John Day farmers market, we dragged ourselves away from the Columbia River front campsite at Memaloose State Park to check out Hood River. Made the pilgrimages to Big Horse Brewing (the oldest brewery in town) and Full Sail Brewing (the biggest and best known brewery in town). Full Sail got points for the most creative flight sampler, as well as for the salmon and chips, and the smoked mac ‘n’ cheese with cauliflower and bacon!

Salmon ‘n’ chips & bacon mac ‘n’ cheese at Full Sail Brewing in Hood River, OR

Day 18: Mouth of Columbia River & Pacific Ocean, Astoria, WA

Drove to beautiful Astoria (the sun was out!). IPAs, hand-cut organic fries, and – in our defense – also a salad at Fort George Brewery and Public House. Afterwards, we were walking down the street when a guy leaned out of his car and asked “Are you looking for a cold beer and great views?” He suggested The Buoy Beer Company – and yes, it was as advertised.

Day 19-20: Pacific Ocean, just south of Tillamook, OR

Another buoy offered a wee trip down memory lane. The trip to Tillamook took us through Seaside, home of the Bell Buoy Crab Company since 1946; when I was a kid, my parents regularly ordered crab from them so that logo is emblazoned in my memory.

Smoked. Brie. That is all.

Since the Tillamook Cheese Company was undergoing construction (to make it even more Disneylandish?), we checked out the neighboring Blue Heron French Cheese Company. The words “smoked Brie” are really all you need to know. Also got some smoked sausages at Debbie D’s, plus IPAs and a Dungeness crab/avocado stack at Pelican Brewing.

The process of hand-crafted salt at Jacobsen Salt Works.

Other delights in nearby Netarts Bay included waterfront bloody Marys and fish-and-chips at The Schooner and happening upon Jacobsen Salt Works.

Day 21: Siuslaw River, Florence, OR

Stopped by the Grateful Bread Bakery, and of course had to get a scone!

Scored a wonderful riverfront campsite at the marina, which was just a couple blocks from downtown Florence.

Day 22-23: Pacific Ocean, Brookings, OR

Super spirits and a super brunch here.

After checking out several campsites, ended up what was essentially a parking lot … an oceanfront parking lot with killer views! Tasty treats in Brookings included IPAs at Chetco Brewing, bloody marys and breakfast (huevos rancheros and biscuits & gravy) at Superfly Distilling, and takeout pizza from nearby Zola’s Pizzeria.

Day 24: South Fork of the Eel River, Humboldt Redwoods SP, CA

Regretted that we couldn’t logistically figure out how to stop at the historic Samoa Cookhouse, the oldest such establishment in the US, but will pin it for next time! Did stop at Eel River Brewing for IPAs and lunch, though.

Day 25: Pacific Ocean, Fort Bragg, CA

The crazy corkscrew drive to Fort Bragg included a stop at a bakery in Garberville (a town which is half charming and half I’m-not-sure-what), IPAs at North Coast Brewing, and a visit with an old friend at the beautiful Noyo Harbor Inn.

Day 26: Bodega Harbor, Bodega Bay, CA

The view of Bodega Bay from our campsite at Westside Regional Campground.

Spent the last night in a spot with a lovely harbor view eating up the rest of the Debbie D’s sausages and Blue Heron cheeses. Didn’t think we’d ever be able to get a site here on Friday night, but the camp host said they’d had several cancellations … probably because of the Santa Rosa fires.

4 thoughts on “Forks in the Road: “395 and Coasting”

  1. Thanks, Katy! I thoroughly enjoyed your travel post. I’ve saved several of your favorite stops and during a trip back out to the Northwest we’ll be sure to check them out. I’m looking forward to reading about your next grand adventure.

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