By Katy Budge
Our most recent Pod Squad trip to the Pacific Northwest underscored the concept of poking around the edges, lifting up the curtains, seeking out the small spaces. Yes, you can always go to the hot spots, and many times they’re worth it. But, don’t discount the value of taking the road less travelled.
Port Townsend
One way we always try to avoid crowds is by travelling during off season. In the case of Port Townsend, a mid-week visit did the trick. We were there on a Wednesday in late spring – not the prime time for tourists in that quaint seaside town. Some shops were closed, but most restaurants were open, including The Old Whiskey Mill, and its sister restaurant, Sirens.
We’d planned on having some breakfast at OWM, but weren’t all that hungry after having one of their impressive Bloody Marys loaded with pork belly, cheese curds, and asparagus! Thankfully, our appetite returned by the time we discovered Sirens, where we enjoyed IPAs, delicious crab cakes, and a killer view of Puget Sound.
Astoria
One late morning in Astoria, we were in search of Bloodies and a water view. Nothing in town was floating our boat, so we meandered eastward along the water and happened upon a location of Mo’s Seafood that sported an excellent view.
I’d never heard of this iconic PNW chain, which started in Newport, Oregon in 1946 and now operates nine locations plus a food truck. The ambiance here was cafeteria-ish, but … they had Bloodies that hit the spot and fish ‘n’ chips that were not only crispy and tasty but served in a FISH-SHAPED DISH! Sometimes, it doesn’t take much to make me happy.
Astoria is home to the Columbia Maritime Museum, but we ended up getting our museum fix at the decidedly non-glitzy (and free) Hanthorn Cannery Museum in Eastern Astoria at historic Pier 39. There’s very little signage, and I found it just by wandering into an open “room” that looked like it had some cool things in it.
The museum is located in a jumble of spaces in what was the last Bumble Bee Tuna canning facility. Among the most fascinating exhibits about this once thriving local industry was a preserved “June Hog.” Typically weighing in at about 80 pounds (no, that isn’t a typo), these super-sized salmon used to populate the Columbia River before we started screwing things up in the late 19th century with commercial fishing methods.
Newport
Let’s just get right to it and say that the main waterfront in Newport is a tad touristy, and that means all manner of schlocky shops selling t-shirts, shells, and salt water taffy. Again, we were looking for a Bloody with a view, so we wandered into the biggest and busiest waterfront restaurant, which is also right above the resident herd of VERY LOUDLY barking sea lions.
The Bloody was bold and bacon-loaded, but given that nothing on the menu was really speaking to us, we sipped up and moved on. Our meandering took us to a funky little spot on the other side of the street called Cuisinako Asian Kitchen that had been open less than a year. Among the items on this self-described fusion menu were spicy Dungeness crab tacos served with mango salsa in mini blue corn taco shells. I kept thinking I’d want to reach for soy sauce, but these were the perfect little nibble!
The next day, we were again in search of – say it with me now – “Bloodies and a view.” We spotted a tiny place with a great view of the fishing boats called The Coffee House Restaurant. It didn’t seem like they would have Bloodies, let alone full-proof alcohol, but here’s your lesson in “it never hurts to ask.” Not only did the affable owner serve real hooch, but when asked if he had Bloody Marys, he broke into a big grin and said, “I have the best ones!”
And indeed he did! Bacon and all. He also had some of the best crab cakes I’ve had, with just enough diced pepper to give them some texture without cheating you on crab, and drizzled with chipotle aioli.
We also poked into one of the smallest and oddest “bars” I’ve even encountered. By day, the Bayscapes Gallery & Coffeehouse is mainly an aforementioned schlocky gift shop. But on some afternoons, the back counter area turns into the Sea Lion Dockside Bar … with Bloodies … AND a view. Winning!
Pronto Pup
And, last but certainly not least in this tale of poking about is the tale of Pronto Pup in Rockaway Beach, reportedly the birthplace of the corn dog. This popped up on Google maps as we were driving from Astoria to Newport, and is perhaps a message to always pull over when something like this pops up on Google maps. Not only is there a 30-foot Pronto Pup on top of the building, there’s also a mechanical Pronto Pup that you can ride (and no, I did not).
As the story goes, more than 80 years ago the proprietors of a hot dog stand were bemoaning the fact that rain had ruined their buns, not a passing problem in the PNW. The resulting batter-encased, cooked on-demand invention was the Pronto Pup! Though I wouldn’t call myself a corn dog connoisseur, these pups were better than the average dog, with a lighter batter and a tad more savory. I’d certainly stop again, and maybe even ride the Pup this time!