Text and Photos By Katy Budge
Heading to the Calistoga/St. Helena area? Here’s a quick look at what I discovered on a recent trip. (It was a pleasant surprise to find out that the immediate area had been spared fire damage, by the way. However, north of town towards Santa Rosa was described as an absolute disaster area, and we chose not to make the drive.)
Some of the Calistoga favorites …
Had a lovely Sunday brunch at Lovina. Previously Calistoga Kitchen, it was bought by a (seemingly) hands-on veteran group from the San Francisco restaurant scene, and reopened as Lovina early in 2018.
One of the absolute highlights was a trip to Calistoga Pottery. Sally and Jeff Manfredi have been crafting their beautiful pottery for almost 40 years, and it graces the tables of some of the area’s premier restaurants. We were lucky enough to hit it at a slow time and got to have a wonderful conversation with Jeff about the Napa Mustard Festival. (Anyone remember that? Such a gem in its early years.)
Brannan’s was a fun spot to hit for happy hour at the bar. Classy, but not stuffy.
Established in 1987, Calistoga Inn and Napa Valley Brewing Company were at the forefront of the craft brewing revolution. As their website notes, “The Inn was the first establishment to brew beer commercially in Napa County since the days of prohibition.” The bar is delightful, especially when they’re serving their housemade potato chips in the afternoons.
If possible, farmers’ markets are always a must stop when we’re travelling. In addition to stocking up on some fresh produce, you get a real sense of the local bounty and community. At the Calistoga Saturday market, we discovered gourmet gems like Big Paw Smoked Chipotle Ketchup from Hollister and cultured butter from Achadinha Cheese Company, a third-generation Petaluma farm and dairy. I did not know butter could be better than it already was.
If dive bars are your thing, check out Susie’s. Self-described as Napa Valley’s oldest bar, it’s definitely Calistoga’s oldest saloon. It’s located down a long hallway, but don’t be scared; at the end is a well-lit bar with friendly staff and no attitude.
Was Buster’s the absolute best barbeque I’ve ever had? No, but it was the best I’ve ever brought back to the (Bothe-Napa SP) campground for a quick, tasty dinner after a long drive and setting up.
For craft taps, another good happy hour spot was Hydro Grill. Lots of locals, but welcoming to newcomers.
Whether you need basic provisions or want to bring some local gourmet labels home, Cal Mart is the place to go. Reasonable wine prices were a pleasant surprise.
And if you need to walk off some of these calories, check out the Oat Hill Mine Trail just north of Calistoga. Great views of the southern valley, AND it’s dog friendly!
Just down the road from Calistoga is St. Helena, home to the revered Culinary Institute of America at Greystone and also some of the best Himalyan food I’ve ever had!
Finally stepped onto the hallowed ground at CIA — even just wandering through the store and peeking in the classrooms was fun. Didn’t eat at the cafe, but were surprised at how reasonable the food was … until we realized they didn’t have to pay for kitchen labor. ;~)
Go to St. Helena Sherpa Kitchen. Just go!
Another must stop is Model Bakery, if only to snag some of their spot-on pillowy English muffins – which were fabulous with the aforementioned cultured butter.
And, what’s a trip to-and-from this area without a stop at Gott’s Roadside? Formerly known as Taylor’s Refresher, the menu offers Niman Ranch beef and Mary’s chicken on their burgers and sammies, a variety of seafood and salad options, and good beer and wine. However, though it may look like a fast food joint, be ready to relax – the food is prepared fresh-to-order and can take a while, especially at peak hours.
Sorry, no wineries this trip – maybe next time!